In the world of perfumery, certain trends emerge as a response to current emotions. And lately, coffee has established itself as a key fragrance note, enveloping and evocative. Halfway between indulgence and sophistication, it inspires creations that are as comforting as they are intriguing.
To better understand this phenomenon, we spoke with Marianne, our fragrance expert at Etiket, who shares her perspective on this now-essential note. Between sensations, associations, and inspirations, here is a short Q&A about coffee in perfumery.
What do coffee notes evoke in perfumery – what kind of vibes or emotions are perfumers trying to create?
Coffee notes are often associated with comfort and warmth – what is cozier than warming your hands around a hot cup of coffee? Maybe it’s a fresh cup in the morning, in a moment of reflection before the start of your day, as a loved one presents it to you in bed, or your favourite barista smiling as they hand you your drink. A darker roast might feel more grounding and smell a little earthy, anchoring more volatile aromatic notes (see Santal Volcanique from Maison Crivelli), while the spicy and chocolatey profile brings sensuality to a bright rose, reminiscent of the last espresso martini during a girls’ night out (see Intense Cafe from Montale).
What are some other notes you might often find associated with coffee in perfumery, and why? What categories do coffee notes tend to be associated with?
Coffee notes are often found with gourmand scents. As coffee naturally presents notes of chocolate, caramel and many different fruits, it’s always interesting to see how perfumers assemble it. As the trend grew for milky accords, notes of vanilla, musk, and other creamy accords can often be found with coffee. It is fairly rare to find a photorealistic coffee scent, and as it is more often than not a fantasy accord (it has to be recreated through synthetic materials, to provide longevity and stability, but it can be extracted from the natural raw material!), it’s usually blended with sweeter notes. Aromatic notes like cardamom or lavender, and resinous notes like myrrh and incense (see Encens Suave from Matiere Premiere) are all interesting combinations to accompany coffee.
Why are coffee fragrances popular right now?
I would assume for a similar reason as why we gravitate to gourmands, where the sheer scent of food or drink can almost provide the same satisfaction as actually having it. Coffee energizes, comforts, and is instantly recognizable as a scent profile, without feeling overly popular like a straightforward vanilla scent (not that there is anything wrong with that!). We seek to be transported, to travel through our scents, and coffee creates an immersive, almost cinematic atmosphere around the person wearing it.
Here are some other fragrances with coffee notes that Marianne invites you to explore:
L’Affogato by Mancera: Anyone—in Italy or elsewhere—who has ever thought of pouring their hot espresso over a scoop of vanilla ice cream knows what an insatiable desire for completeness drives them. Amore Caffè finds its inspiration in this crazy and delicious idea of mixing opposites.
Green and metallic notes convey the electrifying energy, suspense, and adrenaline of the game. Notes of leather, amber, tobacco, and coffee on a woody base evoke the macho, hushed, and warm atmosphere of the venue.
Layton Exclusif – Parfums de Marly
Layton Exclusif is a beautiful emotional bomb. At the top, bergamot offers itself generously, fiery and explosive, while rose and geranium compete in a contest of elegance. In the base notes, a touch of cardamom blends with sandalwood and guaiac wood, amplifying the nobility of the woods. On the skin, the sudden turmoil is complete thanks to this unique and gustatory note of caramelized coffee.
