Seahorse from Zoologist launches at Etiket!
Fragrance

Zoologist’s New Fragrance Takes Us Under the Sea

Zoologist's new fragrance has landed at Etiket. It's an inspired voyage below the ocean surface. Let's dive in...

If you’ve never encountered the fragrances of Toronto-based Zoologist, you’re in for a wild ride. Each extrait de parfum is inspired by a different animal, invoking its personality and even, in the case of Hyrax, actual (humanely harvested) aromatics from the titular creature. But no animal, humans included, exists in isolation. They’re but one part of the web of flora and fauna which collaborate on the unknowable art project that is their respective habitat. This is why, at least to me, Zoologist perfumes aren’t really about animals as much as the scent of wild landscapes. Panda evokes a misty bamboo forest; Chameleon a tropical island fantasy. Now, with their newest scent, Zoologist turns its attention to a world under the sea. 

When Pixar was developing “Finding Nemo”, the production team took scuba lessons to learn more about the look and feel of being underwater. They soon realized that even the clearest, cleanest water is filled with textures; little floating organisms, plant matter, bits of coral and sand floating by, glittering in the shafts of wobbly sunlight. Hours of painstaking animation ensued to add multitudinous sea stuff to each shot. This proved to be the elusive ingredient in making the underwater world feel real. 

Zoologist’s new fragrance Seahorse is filled to the brim with “Finding Nemo” textures. You can smell the colours of a richly animated oceanic ecosystem, pulsating like a garden of algae and alien wildflowers. Blue orange blossoms sway in the airless breeze, tides sluice around glossy grass, and all sound goes underwater quiet. In fact, in my opinion, this stillness is key to the uniqueness of this fragrance. Many aquatic scents take the constant churning motion of waves as inspiration, evoking sea spray on the shore where humans can greedily inhale its vapour. But there is something more serene and grounded about Seahorse — still playful but meditative, lapping instead of crashing, like touring the palatial gardens of an undersea empire. This scent doesn’t just take you to an oceanside view, it invites you to be fully submerged.

On the skin, the scent can feel like bioluminescence, the green notes waxing and waning, a foamy floral warmth anchoring all that freshness. Transparent tuberose adds touches of neon coral, and vetiver and ambergris conjure a sheer vegetal earthiness, evoking the sandy sea floor at the base of everything. Those for whom aquatic scents are solely for the heat of summer, take note: the lifelike nature photography in this scent gives it enough depth to wear all year round. If each Zoologist scent is conceived as a voyage into an unknown world of unspoiled nature, Seahorse might be one of their most fully realized. It’s a transportive fragrance, thrillingly foreign and, perhaps from the films of our childhoods, also strangely familiar.

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Can Perfumes Have Textures?
Fragrance

Can Perfumes Have Textures?

When speaking about perfume, we often use words borrowed from other senses. To me, an important sense to invoke in our understanding of perfume is touch. Obviously, smells don’t have physical textures or temperatures. But thinking about the tactile qualities of a perfume can be a gateway to their emotional heart.

When speaking about perfume, we often use words borrowed from other senses. Ingredients become “notes”, like ones you might play on a piano (which is why a perfumer’s desk is referred to as an “organ”). A fragrance can be too “light” for us, and while it’s sometimes unclear whether we’re describing physical weight or colour, our noses can’t truly perceive either. Scent is steeped in sensory metaphor.

To me, an important sense to invoke in our understanding of perfume is touch. Obviously, smells don’t have physical textures or temperatures. But thinking about the tactile qualities of a perfume can be a gateway to their emotional heart. 

Perfumers thinking texturally has led to breakthroughs in the world of fragrance. It often requires a metaphoric leap in the mind of each nose; if one forgets about what an ingredient actually is, what might it make you think of? Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena uses a signature green tea effect to create a luminous quality, like transparent flowing water, which made hits of fragrances like Bvlgari’s Thé Vert and Hermes’ Un Jardin en Méditerranée (you can sample his work at Etiket in Dia Woman and L’Eau D’Ambre Extrême). Similarly, Olivia Giacobetti pioneered the use of fig and other fresh effects to make fragrances that seem airy and subtly cool to the touch, as she does in Premier Figuier and Passage D’Enfer

On the other side of the spectrum, perfumer Sophia Grojsman’s work often feels fuzzy and thick because of her trademark “hug me accord”: an abstract blend of synthetic jasmine, violet, musk and cedar molecules which makes her fragrances seem cozy and warm (like in Lancome’s classic Tresor). And Andy Tauer has created a rabid cult following with his unapologetic waves of hot spice, which add a dry crackling heat to scents like L’Air du Désert Marocain and Cologne du Maghreb. Composed with care, a perfume can imply closeness or distance; glass, cloth, paper, powder or liquid; warm or cool; movement or stillness. 

The fragrances of Maison Crivelli make brilliant use of texture, and they do so in a modern way. Many of them have what I call a “holographic” texture: lifelike, shimmery, and light-reflecting. Creating fragrances with this effect allows the rich amber notes of Lys Sølaberg to feel approachable and relaxed. It allows bold ingredients like woods and spices to seem almost weightless in Santal Volcanique and Bois Datchaï. And it gives rose, which can smell surprisingly thick, even jammy in isolation, a new, breezy lifein Rose Saltifolia, as if the scent were dancing across your perception on a seaside summer wind.

Maison Crivelli fragrances also use textural elements to evoke extremes of temperature, which form surprising contrasts with classic ingredients. A sparkling, icy freshness makes the lavender, juniper and musk in Absinthe Boréale seem enrobed in a delicate frost. The juicy heat of chili and the earthy depth of vetiver makes the orange and bergamot inside Citrus Batikanga sizzle in the bustling heat of a tropical market. 

If all this sounds a bit far-fetched, like those sommeliers who tell you you must be able to taste butter in your chardonnay, don’t worry. The ultimate truism of fragrance is that all scent is subjective. But asking yourself which textures, colours or temperatures you sense when you smell a perfume, regardless of what you come up with, can help make sense of a fragrance’s energy, which will, in turn, hint at what it might feel like to wear it. For example, while everybody’s skin is different, a cool, airy or watery fragrance might leave a more casual impression on your skin than something dark, syrupy, sandy or hot. 

Finally, looking for textures is a way to rediscover ingredients or scent families you thought you knew. If you love earthy and smoky notes, but you can’t imagine wearing them to the office, you could step away from the hottest, driest Tauer scents, for example, and towards a more liquid and transparent scent like Smoke Show. If light floral perfumes often feel aggressive and headache-inducing, but you love the scent of real flowers, you could try finding scents that are less cool, bright and sharp and more velvety and warm. And if you thought you hated powdery fragrances because they always feel too “classic”, meet Crivelli’s Papyrus Moléculaire or Iris Malikhan, which both take the concept of powder in richer, darker, edgier, and more contemporary directions. 

David, Director of Fragrance at Etiket

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Is Fragrance Giftable?
Fragrance

Is Fragrance Really Giftable?

As the holiday season rolls around, we’re often asked about the best way to select a fragrance as a gift. Here are some steps to help you achieve a fragrance gifting triumph.

As the holiday season rolls around, we’re often asked about the best way to select a fragrance as a gift. Many people like the idea of gifting fragrance, especially for a loved one who’s often within smelling distance. But the wide variety of fragrances available and the personal nature of scent make it a particular challenge, especially if you’re not a diehard fragrance lover yourself. However, contrary to popular belief, it is possible to get them a fragrance they’ll love! In a perfect world, you could just buy them another bottle of their favourite, in which case, you’ll be done before you know it. Assuming that’s not an option, here are some steps to help you achieve a fragrance gifting triumph.

1. Don’t think so much about ”notes” or ingredients; think about personality

Perfumes are often described by what fragrance “families” they belong to. Are they sweet? Floral? Woody? Animalic? And while knowing your recipient’s taste in ingredients can help, often fragrances can vary just as much within families as between them. Instead, we suggest thinking first about the personality or style of the person you’re buying for. Are they bold? Reserved? Dramatic? Fun? Distinctions like fancy or casual, and for work or for play, can often help narrow the field better than deciding between cedar and vanilla.

To this end, we’ve compiled a Fragrance Gift Guide with nine categories of fragrance lovers (or the fragrance curious). Look for ones that feel like they describe your recipient’s disposition, taste in clothes, or the way they greet the world.

2. Stick to the safe bets (and beware some tricky ingredients)

There are two reasons that ingredients do matter a little for gift giving: skin chemistry and scent associations. Scent is closely tied to memory, which can make the exact same smell feel different to different people. Additionally, perfume changes subtly once it hits skin, making it harder to estimate how certain perfumes will smell on any particular person. To maximize your chances of success, we recommend sticking to more versatile scents with crowd-pleasing ingredients and styles.

Try: Escentric Molecules

This brand is a hit for a reason. Without getting too technical, many of their most-loved perfumes aren’t really “perfumes” in the sense that vanilla isn’t really a cake. Instead, their line of “Molecule” scents (numbered 01-05) are suspensions of a single versatile base note in alcohol. Translation? They’re the frame, not the painting. This means that they adapt to anyone’s skin and amplify the best qualities of their natural scent. The result is a wear-it-anywhere automatic jaw dropper that can also layer beautifully with any other scents in their collection.

Try: Malin + Goetz

These fun, modern fragrances are a nice bridge between “nice smell” and “proper perfume” (and we mean that in the best way possible). They’re inspired by easily-identifiable smells, and evoke them in an accessible way. They’re already well loved for their addictive body products, and their packaging is effortlessly chic. And worst comes to worst, buying someone a fragrance named “Cannabis” is sure to at least make them smile (but it would also smell great on almost anyone anyway).

Be careful with: buying something ”fresh”

“Fresh” is a concept in perfume that’s become such a cliché it hardly means anything. If they’ve told you they like “fresh” fragrances, or you have a memory of them smelling “clean”, this could be helpful, or could be a trap. Because of the way scent is tied to memory, “fresh” could mean anything from citrus to mint, light flowers to aquatic, and even white musk. Try to narrow your search by thinking of their personality, or if “fresh” is all you have to go on, consider any Heeley fragrance with a white label.

Be careful with: Floral for the sake of floral

Flowers are foundational to the history of perfume. They also could be the most polarizing ingredient of them all. Not only can people have strong reactions to heavily floral scents, but the way that flowers show up in a composition ranges from “shrieking” to “invisible”. This doesn’t mean you should stay away from any fragrance which lists flowers among the notes; most will have some somewhere. However, if a fragrance is described as both rich/intense and predominantly floral, you might want to get them to try a sample first (unless you or they are experienced fragrance buyers).

One exception to this rule is if you know they have a favourite flower. If so, find a fragrance that doesn’t just include it, but is overwhelmingly and exclusively inspired by it. Lilac lovers will likely love A Lilac a Day, orange blossom enthusiasts will likely swoon over Histoire d’Orangers, and if they grow real roses in their garden, Lustre should remind them of home. 

3. Smell for yourself, and even get a second opinion

It will not surprise you to hear that smells cannot be fully experienced through the internet (at least not yet). While many of our clients have learned enough about their personal taste to shop our fragrance selection online, buying a fragrance gift can put many of us back at square one. An excellent way to complete your holiday shopping would be to visit our Montréal boutique and sniff a shortlist of options. If this is a possibility for you, the same advice from #1 applies; when smelling each fragrance, try to think of the person’s energy, personality and style more than decide whether they’d like the actual ingredients.

For those who aren’t lucky enough to live nearby, we also offer the option to purchase samples online of almost any fragrance we sell. If you plan ahead, investing a small amount in an assortment of samples can help you seal the deal, or even sneak an option onto the skin of the actual person you’re buying for. And if the element of surprise is too important to give up, bring the samples around to someone who knows your recipient just as well (or even better) than you do. When seeking a second opinion, the question we’d recommend asking isn’t “would they like this?” as much as “do you think this smells like them?” Lastly, if you’re their significant other, remember to consider what scents you’d enjoy smelling on them as well!

4. Don’t forget the home!

If you’re still not ready to make a judgement call on a fragrance for skin, try a fragrance for space! Any room is enlivened by the invisible colour of a home fraIf you’re still too scared to make a judgement call about a fragrance for skin, try a fragrance for space! Any room is enlivened by the invisible colour of a home fragrance, and we carry a beautiful array of scents in various formats. Home scents are the perfect gifting sweet spot: something almost everybody loves, but many people often don’t buy for themselves.  

The range of diffusers from Culti Milano have been extremely popular, as well as their car sachets – a unique gift for anybody who drives to work. Local Montréal brands Les Citadines and T. Lees create artisanal, elevated scents for every taste, and Arquiste’s candles are vibrant, transportive and unique. Finally, for the ultimate luxury experience, the world-renowned house of Fornasetti makes candles which rise to the level of art objects – taking home scent from invisible accent to dazzling decor.

Finally, gifting fragrance with Etiket has one distinct advantage – free samples! Like most retailers, we can’t accept returns of used fragrance, even if it’s only been sprayed once. However, Etiket offers complimentary fragrance samples with every purchase. Simply request a sample of the scents you’re buying and we’ll happily include them so your recipient can try the sample on before they open the full-sized bottle. If it turns out it’s not for them, they can easily return the unused fragrance and get something for themselves. This also means that every bottle of fragrance you buy for someone else lets you try some free samples for yourself, and if that isn’t a reason to be generous, I don’t know what is!

Image source: @penhaligons_london

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Meleg Perfumes just launched at Etiket
Fragrance

Niche. Unapologetic. Canadian-Made. Discover Meleg Perfumes.

We just launched a new fragrance brand called Meleg Perfumes! Learn more about this exciting new niche brand and why Simon decided to launch Meleg Perfumes at Etiket.

Meleg Perfumes was founded by Matthew Meleg, a self-trained perfume enthusiast, in 2020.

It’s impossible to consider Meleg Perfumes without taking into account Matthew Meleg himself. “There is no separation between myself and the perfumes. Each one has a story behind it, and they’re kind of like diary entries,” the Vancouver-based self-taught perfumer says.

Every component from the ingredients to the packaging is deliberate and conscientiously crafted. The box that holds each perfume is inspired by apple bins of the Meleg Orchard in Ontario. 

The goal? ”Thick, nuanced and layered with facets, I’m playing jazz here. Meleg Perfumes express liveliness and are recognized by their hedonistic character. Sometimes baroque and once in a while I’ll even throw a little Pop-Art as well – ode to fellow Slovak, Andy Warhol. And because I’m self taught, stubborn and unwilling to compromise with their compositions you’ll either love or hate my perfumes. My goal isn’t to please everyone. My goal is to make art, to celebrate being alive.” Matthew Meleg

As he suggests, his perfumes are mostly diary entries, they would detail a fascination with culture, history and sexuality. They also tell the story of a wayward journey – from growing up on a farm to a difficult family life to dropping out of Emily Carr University, to his decade of living in Japan. His scents are unapologetic, nuanced and complex, much like Meleg himself. 

What drew us to the brand?

We pride ourselves on being a beauty destination that features curated brands from around the world. Simon, Etiket’s founder, carefully selects beauty, fragrance and lifestyle brands that are well-established, or up-and-coming like Meleg Perfumes.

We asked Simon what prompted him to add to add Meleg Perfumes to our fragrance lineup. This was his answer:

I am always looking for new brands, especially Canadian brands to add to our assortment. I was excited when I had a call from Matthew to talk about his new fragrance collection because we don’t have that many Canadian perfumers. We already carry three Canadian perfume brands: Monsillage, Zoologist and Libertine Fragrance and Meleg Perfumes made a perfect addition. Matthew’s approach to fragrance comes not only from his personal experience and travels but from being a self-taught perfumer who has pushed himself to make innovative and beautiful fragrances often rooted in a Canadian heritage with inspiration from his travels around the world.”

We currently carry 10 of the Meleg Perfumes in our store and on our website. If you’d like to test some of the fragrances, you can always purchase samples through our sample program, or stop by the store!

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Skin Care

The Best Products of 2020: Skincare, Hair Care and Fragrance Essentials

As we enter a new year, we're looking back on the products that stole our hearts in 2020. From hair care essentials, to skincare and fragrance cult-favourites, 2020 was a good year for the beauty industry. Let's discover the products!

As we enter a new year, we’re looking back on the products that stole our hearts in 2020. From hair care essentials, to skincare and fragrance cult-favourites, 2020 was a good year for the beauty industry. The current pandemic has forced many of us to curate our beauty shelves and to embrace a less-is-more approach with quality over quantity. Now, let’s discover the products!

SKINCARE

For most of us, spending more time at home meant we had more time to indulge in luxurious self-care nights and lengthy skincare routines. At-home treatment devices and targeted face masks became must-haves, while serums and creams designed to promote the skin’s overall health and wellness were flying off the shelves. The name of the game last year was skin health. Antioxidants, Sunscreen, Hyaluronic Acid we’re all integral components of achieving it.

Some of last year’s favourites are Vintner’s Daughter’s Active Botanical Serum, for example. Formulated with 22 active botanicals, this serum delivers the most optimal concentrations of nourishing Phytonutrients, balancing Minerals, Age-Defying Antioxidants, strengthening Phytoceramides and Amino Acids, replenishing Fatty Acids, and brightening Vitamins to deliver powerful skin nutrition in one step. The ZIIP device was another popular item last year. The at-home treatment uses nanocurrents and microcurrents to encourage cells to create more collagen and elastin.

Vitamin C got a big boost in 2020, with products like Melanie Simon’s Vitamin C serum and Kat Burki’s cold-pressed Vitamin C face cream, while sunscreens like Elta MD’s UV Clear SPF 46, stayed top-of-mind with beauty consumers. Discover the full list of skincare best-sellers!

FRAGRANCE

You may be surprised, but 2020 was an amazing year for fragrances. Perhaps it’s because we could finally test different scents from the comfort of our home before taking them out for a spin, or maybe because spraying a fragrance on in the morning helped us feel more put together. In any case, 2020 was good to fragrances. Some of last year’s bestsellers were new, while others have been around for some time, but had us coming back for more.

Gallivant, for example, came out with a new scent called Bukhara. A woody, floral orris perfume, composed with start perfumer Ralf Schwieger. Musk Deer from Zoologist was another new player on the scene, with notes of synthetic musks, natural oud and florals.

Some established fragrances also made our 2020 best-sellers list, like Misfit from Arquiste and Verticaloud from Hermetica. Misft is an elegant Patchouli fragrance designed to be worn by everyone, whereas Verticaloud is characterized by woody and oriental notes, such as rose oil, saffron and agarwood. Discover the full list of best-selling fragrances for 2020!

BEAUTY

This past year was all about great skin, bold eyes and thick brows. In fact, our entire makeup routines became centered around our face masks and zoom meetings. Most of the time, our lips are hidden, so forget lipstick. Our eyes, skin and brows, however, became the main focus. Tools that help you de-puff and attain a natural glow, like Gua Shas and Jade Rollers, we’re also popular.

To help you achieve the perfect brows, we brought in a Canadian brand called Plume Science. They’re all about creating full, natural brows and lashes. Their Lash & Brow Serum has quickly become a cult-favourite, as have their Brow Pomades. For the perfect base, might we suggest RMS Beauty’s Master Radiance Base? This flattering cream highlighter works to blur out imperfections and create the ultimate glow! Don’t forget the eye! Dot on some of ILIA’s Powder Chromatic Eye Tints and their Limitless Lash Mascara and you’re ready to take on the world… from home! Discover the full list of best-selling beauty products from 2020!

HAIR CARE

In the same way the pandemic has forced us to look at how we take care of our skin, it’s also forced us to look at how we treat our hair and scalp. In fact, 2020 shook us up in many ways including how we looked after our hair. Many of us made the decision to go natural, gray made a big comeback as did curls. Many of us also turned to touch-up products to hide the re-growth before our salons re-opened. Hair masks and scalp treatments and dry shampoos also became popular as we discovered that hair care was really all about looking after our hair!

Products like Rahua’s Leave-In Treatment grew in popularity for their ability to protect, heal and hydrate our hair overnight. Other products like R+CO’s Crown Scalp Scrub reminded us of the importance of scalp health. Touch-up products like R+CO’s Root Touch-Up Spray and Death Valley Dry Shampoo allowed our hair to look fresh and bouncy while we impatiently awaited for hair salons to reopen. Discover the full list of hair care best-sellers from 2020.

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Fragrance

To Niche or not to Niche?

What is niche perfume? Simon tells you everything you need to know about nice fragrances and why you should make the switch from department store scents.

What is niche perfume? Simon tells you everything you need to know about nice fragrances and why you should make the switch from department store scents.

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Patch Flash Sketch Tauerville
Fragrance

Flash Patch from Andy Tauer

A PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS We asked Andy Tauer what Patch Flash was ...

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Patch Flash Sketch Tauerville
Sketch by Andy Tauer

A PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS
We asked Andy Tauer what Patch Flash was all about and this sketch was his answer.
For any of you that follow Andy on Instagram, you know he is a constant sketcher.

WHAT IS PATCH FLASH ALL ABOUT?
If it was up to Andy, he would say you need to discover it on your own. He likes the idea that everybody smells it without worrying too much about inspiration and notes.
Do you love it or don’t you?
We know that we do.
Patch Flash from Andy Tauer’s TAUERVILLE is a gorgeous oriental sent with notes of Spices, Warm flowers, Leather, Patchouli, Benzoin.
Now it is up to you to decide for yourself.
Andy Tauer's Patch Flash
Patch Flash Tauerville

WHAT IS TAUERVILLE?
Created by Andy Tauer the self made perfumer behind Tauer Perfumes, Tauerville is a fresh and fun and a simpler take on Andy’s incredible vision of scent. These small format fragrances are either a perfect introduction to his more complex scents or just a beautiful way to lose yourself in fragrance.

Tauerville by Andy Tauer

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B683
Fragrance

Let us take you on a journey to B683

One sees clearly only with the heart. The essential is invisible to the eye. The ...

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B683One sees clearly only with the heart. The essential is invisible to the eye.
The Little Prince – Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

Marc-Antoine Barrois is a French couturier who wants to take us to his planet B683, and he does this through a perfume that he created with the perfumer Quentin Bisch.
That is impossible you say?
Is it?

Monsieur Barrois is about creation and Monsieur Bisch is a perfumer. They took their childhood memories and they created something that they loved. They created a fragrance that comes from olfactive experiences that touched them, of elegant attaché cases, of gathering wood, of moments that can be defined and some that cannot. Moments that have been somehow put together into a fragrance. That fragrance is a world unto its own.

As Le Petit Prince, took great care of his planet B-612, Monsieur Barrois has created a beautiful scent full of memories and emotion that is his planet B683.
Very poetic you say?
When a perfume is truly great, is it not poetic and full of emotion and memories?

It makes you want to smell your wrist again where you sprayed it in the morning. Or steal back your lover’s shirt that he wore yesterday, so you may keep him close while he is gone.
This is not a perfume to spray on a blotter when you try it, spray it right on your skin, and be ready to travel to B683.
Just be warned, you may not want to come back.

THE NOTES OF B683

The primary note is spicy, made up of:
Black Pepper
Saffron
Chili
Nutmeg

The heart of the perfume is like a precious leather or suede and is made up of:
Violet leaf
Amber
Cistus Absolute
Musk

The base note is warm and woody and is made up of:
Patchouli
Santal Wood
Oak Moss
Ambroxan

Shop B683 from Marc-Antoine Barrois, HERE


Marc-Antoine Barrois
Marc-Antoine Barrois is a French couturier born from a northern French family who had made name for themsel- ves in the textile industry. From a very early age he was fascinated by his grandfather’s elegance that drove him to seek the art of simple luxury without ostentation but assuredly with finesse. After learning patterns, cutting and sewing as he was studying textile engineering, he designed his first collection in Lille in 2006. This success then led Marc-Antoine Barrois to work with Dominique Sirop, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Jean-Claude Jitrois before creating his own Maison de Couture for men. Offering men what women have already in Haute Couture, Marc-Antoine Barrois designs unique suits, tuxedos and jackets for confidential clients seeking exclusivity.
The first MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS boutique opened in 2013 on rue de Budapest in Paris and offers Parisian crafted collections of jewels and accessories alongside his bespoke clothing.
As a result of the heart of the creative process, he defines his world as a new constellation offering handcrafted luxury in a place where service and a warm-spirit are prevailing.

Quentin Bisch
Quentin Bisch had a revelation that perfumes were going to be part of his life, when smelling Opium on his school teacher, at the age of 11. But his artistic and creative itinerary first started with music and theater. He lead for 5 years a theatrical group of professionals. When composing music, Quentin soon realized he was not using his meant-to-be instrument. He left everything behind and moved to Grasse to learn perfumery. A year later Jean Guichard recognized his inner talent and integrates him to the Perfumery School at Givaudan. In 2011, he finally joined the creative team of Givaudan Fine Fragrance in Paris, as a perfumer. From then he has created many perfumes among which Angel Muse and A*Men Ultra Zest for Mugler, Azzaro pour Homme FreeLight, Missoni de Missoni, Ambre Impérial for Van Cleef & Arpels, La Fin du Monde for Etat Libre d’Orange, Essencia and 7 for Loewe Sport, Fleur Narcotique for Ex Nihilo…
Quentin Bisch, likes more than anything to « create emotion, surprise, take people to journeys ».

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Simon Tooley
Fragrance

What is Your Fall Scent Wardrobe?

Simon Tooley, Etiket brand creator and perfume enthusiast, shares his top fragrance picks for the ...

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Simon Tooley, Etiket brand creator and perfume enthusiast, shares his top fragrance picks for the upcoming fall season.
Simon Tooley

When fall comes around, just like we feel the need to change how we dress, I think we feel the need to change our fragrance. We tend to look to heavier scents; scents with notes of Amber, Oud, Vanilla or Patchouli come to mind. It doesn’t mean we have to change our signature scent if we have one, or perhaps we have one for the fall that we only bring out then. For me when fall hits, I definitely change my fall scent wardrobe, and I look forward to wearing old favourites or trying something new.

Thirty-Three EDP by Ex Idolo
One of my favourites is Thirty-Three from Ex Idolo, this scent with thirty-three-year-old oud, takes me on a journey that includes notes of rubber and a deep sexy dry down. On a woman, it is just as beautiful.
Thirty-Three by Ex Idolo

Thirty-Three is a fragrance created from hand blended and very special ingredients. Vintage Oud is the soul of the fragrance, distilled in 1980 and aged until its release in 2013.

Suede de Suède by Mona di Orio
I love the latest scent from Mona di Orio, Suède de Suède which is somehow perfect for fall, it reminds me of a hand-made pair of suede gloves that I bought in Lisbon, deep brown and trimmed in red, this fragrance is much more than suede of course. It has a rich earthiness with the patchouli, my most favourite note, and leaves me with the warmth of suede and musk at the end.

Inspired by memories of the Mona di Orio Swedish in-house perfumer Fredrik Dalman, Suede de Suède unveils a perfume that evocatively caresses the skin like soft Swedish gloves. A smooth woody suède accord warms you like the silky backside of a fur.

Savoy Steam by Penhaligon’s
One of the newest launches from Penhaligon’s, Savoy Steam, is a surprising take on their original scent, Hammam Bouquet from 1872, it has an Englishness that has both humour and sexiness and the touch of rosemary and eucalyptus are a perfect foil to the rose and pink pepper.
Savoy Steam Penhaligon's
A fitting tribute to the original Penhaligon’s scent, Hammam Bouquet, Savoy Steam has top notes of bergamot, lemon, eucalyptus, mint, pink pepper and rosemary; middle notes of rose, geranium, cardamom, hedione and tea; base notes are benzoin, incense, vanilla and white musk.

Close Up by Olfactive Studio
I think one of the recent launches from Olfactive Studio, Close Up, deserves attention with Amber and Tonka, and a Green Coffee top note that makes me smile. There is a richness that just makes you want to spray it on your turtleneck so you feel that intensity each time you wear it.
Close Up Olfactive Studio
Intense and contrasting, the amber tones combine with a freshness. It has a full- bodied character that blends seamlessly with anise and green coffee. Zooming in even closer, each ingredient gains in intensity and distinctness.

London by Gallivant
Finally, my pick for a fragrance that goes from spring to summer to fall and into our cold winters is from Gallivant, called London. It may be the reference to the Pet Shop boys but who doesn’t want to be an East End Boy or a West End Girl? The rose mixed with leather, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood take you from the of ce to the “pub” to meet your “chum” after work. My go to scent this fall so far.
GALLIVANT LONDON
It’s a floral leather fragrance. With a watery green head, of cucumber and violet leaves. A floral heart, with Rose de Mai Absolute, rose oil and orris root. And base notes of leather, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood.

Come meet our experts to find out what would be your ideal fall scent: a scent that would suit you like your wardrobe.

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GALLIVANT ISTANBUL
Fragrance

Review: Gallivant’s Istanbul & Brooklyn by Chemist in the Bottle

This is a reblog of a review by Lucas from Chemist in the Bottle about ...

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This is a reblog of a review by Lucas from Chemist in the Bottle about Istanbul and Brooklyn from Gallivant.

Road trip, two from Gallivant

It’s incredibly flattering for me when once in a while I receive an email from a perfume brand stating that they’ve been following my blog for a while & like my writing style, therefore they’d like to send me samples. For me it’s a great way of discovering new things but also to develop more personal relationship with a brand, because I have that 1 message I can later use for further contact. Few weeks ago I was approached in a way mentioned by Nick Steward, founder of Gallivant. The name rang a bell in my mind, so of course I was happy to try their fragrances. Gallivant as a verb means “to go around from one place to another in the pursuit of pleasure or entertainment” while the brand sources their perfume ideas from nomad life and being a traveller. Perfume is a destination here.gallivantIstanbul (shown above left) embodies “this feeling of an ancient city, but with a freshness, a modernity. An old luxury and a new confidence.” Its composition starts with a tart bergamot that is so diffusive it feels more like a shade cast by a citrus tree on a sunny day. It’s gone in a quick poof, stepping down to make room for cardamom. The latter one is more and spicy, with a crunchy and roasted background. There’s even something slightly caramelized about it. Its impression is followed by red thyme which gradually builds up an herbal aspect of the scent. This one is also a bit sweaty. Heart of the fragrance hides lavender absolute that is a marriage between floral and herbaceous elements. As far as I’m concerned I found its aroma to be quite dry & more herbal than floral. Geranium is a source of temporary feeling of something crispy and green but later it develops a sharp, minty undertone. Because it seems a bit metallic it feels slightly disturbing, at least to me. Later on I get opoponax and patchouli. They blend nicely together to create a multi-layer of woody, balsamic, earthy and sweet notes. It’s a source of pleasure in Instanbul the fragrance. The base is firing up with generous dose of rich vanilla, supported by beautiful, creamy spiciness of tonka bean. Amber adds a sensual warmth while sandalwood brings forth a seductive vibe. The drydown has some heft to it but doesn’t feel too heavy. It’s definitely the most interesting part of this scent.

Brooklyn (shown above right) according to the brand is about “non-stop go-go-go” while the perfume is meant to be “energetic with a creative and intellectual fizz.” In this case the opening is build around bergamot again but it lingers on skin, effusing tart, aromatic and zesty molecules. As soon as lemon and orange add their values, the perfume starts to be a kick of energy, very juicy, tasty and mouth-watering like a glass of freshly squeezed juice you could grab on your way to work. We have cardamom here again but much less accentuated, it’s all about citrus at the moment. However there is a twist to it when incense starts to sneak in, bringing some sheer smokiness with it. Who would have thought that it would smell so nice with lemon or bergamot. Later on Brooklyn juiciness becomes more clean. It smells of fresh air, clean cotton sheets with a little bit of ozonic notes. From citrus it gradually goes to pale, aquatic florals. I can smell silky magnolia and perhaps a little bit of water-lily but Gallivant uses a general term of transparent flowers. It does feel sheer, airy and with pastel colors. There’s also a gentle powdery vibe of iris here. The drydown has a fluffy musk accord blended with white woods that are delicate and that don’t add much weight to the scent. Amber (much lighter than in Istanbul) raises temperature a bit while benzoin listed among notes was barely there on my skin. Perhaps it was very subtle and got overlooked because of ambery note.

***

Both Istanbul and Brooklyn have decent projection and good longevity. They are interesting and quite easy to wear. Gallivant team decided to work with young perfumers  – Istanbul was created by Karine Chevallier while Brooklyn is a composition from Giorgia Navarra (trained by Bertrand Duchaufour). These 2 are a half of initial collection from Gallivant, other 2 represent London and Tel Aviv. Plus there will be another two appearing this fall. All fragrances are in eau de parfum concentration and since the brand is about exploring and discovering places, their bottle is travel friendly (and perfumista friendly) since it’s a 30 ml size. Feel like going to any of these two places?

To read more reviews from Lucas, visit Chemist in the Bottle

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Penhaligon's
Fragrance

Discover Savoy Steam from Penhaligon’s

SAVOY STEAM The latest fragrance from Penhaligon’s Savoy Steam is inspired by the first fragrance from ...

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SAVOY STEAM
The latest fragrance from Penhaligon’s
Penhaligon'sSavoy Steam is inspired by the first fragrance from Penhaligon’s, Hammam Bouquet, that was created in 1872 by William Penhaligon as a nod to the Turkish baths and saunas that were all the rage in London in that era. Where Hammam Bouquet is exotic, Savoy Steam is fastidiously clean; both beautiful scents in their own right.

Savoy Steam takes it’s name from the famous Savoy Turkish Baths that were at 92 Jermyn Street in London. The traditional Penhaligon’s bow on the bottle is made to look like a Turkish striped cotton towel.

This eau de parfum is a beautiful simple fragrance with notes of rose, pink pepper and geranium resolute. There is Tunisian rosemary that adds a spicy note and the base notes of incense, vanilla and white musk anchor the scent very subtly.

This is a fragrance for men or women and is an especially good scent for any man who wants to wear a rose scent but doesn’t want one that is inextricably mixed with leather and amber.

Discover Savoy Steam

HAMMAM BOUQUET
The first fragrance from Penhaligon’s
Penhaligon's Hammam BouquetPenhaligon’s first scent, Hammam Bouquet, was dreamt up by William Penhaligon in 1872 after inhaling the steam and sulphurous aromas of the neighbouring Turkish baths. This first fragrance was Williams’ lifelong personal favourite and remains one of Penhaligon’s bestsellers today. The base notes include musk, amber and sandalwood, the middle notes are of roses, cedarwood, orris and jasmine, and the top notes are lavender and bergamot.

Discover Hammam Bouquet

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